Just finished reading an article in The New York Times about the good ole days of the host being the "owner' and hanging out in the dining room to talk to the customers. The piece laments that utter disappearance of this ritual among the majority of the current restaurants. Furthermore, it mentions that today, chefs rule the land and are either in the kitchen or shooting a episode on the Food Network.
Yeah, it all sounds about right.....but wait.
I'm not sure about other neighborhoods (well there is my boy Joe Campanale always at Dell'anima, L'Artusi or Anfora saying hi and talking to customers about the wine) but this idea of the owner as the host is alive and well in the East Village at In Vino Winebar.
For myself and my business partner David, there are few things more important than "being there" for your staff and your patrons. East Villagers like seeing the faces of the owners around. Not all the time, but enough to reassure them of the organic vibe of the place.
We also have a wine shop - Alphabet City Wine Co. - and David and I switch on and off three hour shifts at each spot all week long. I love leaving the shop over on Avenue C, moseying on over to the restaurant on East Fourth and seeing who is there. I gaze across the floor and look for familiar faces. If I recognize no one I look at the bottles on the table and choose my favorite one, go to that table ask them how everything is and talk to them about the wine - it's so fun!
If I need to be the bus boy I will; dishwasher, I will; bartender, you got it.
I am not the only one. The good people at Grape and Grain do the same. And across the street and down from my little joint the owners of Perbacco can be found walking around. And we can't forget or boy Jason Hennings of Black Iron and a few other joints. He's always around his places.
So the history of this great city is safe in the traditions of old here in the Lower East section of the island. That wonderful place we call the East Village.
For true East Village hospitality, visit these restaurants:
In Vino Wine Bar is located at 215 East 4th Street, between Avenues A and B.
Alphabet City Wine Co. is located at 100 Avenue C, at 7th Street.
Grape and Grain is located at 620 East 6th Street, between Avenues B and C.
Perbacco Enoteca e Cucina is located at 234 East 4th Street, near Avenue B.
Black Iron Burger Shop is located at 540 East 5th Street, between Avenues A and B.
